Unayoi

When you want eel without the formality of a centuries-old specialist, Unayoi in Ueno 6-chome makes an easy drop-in spot. The atmosphere is that of a relaxed izakaya, serving eel dishes that function just as well as drinking snacks as they do as a hearty meal.

A house specialty is the unatama-don, where fragrant grilled eel sits atop fluffy, runny scrambled eggs. The gentle sweetness of the egg complements the savory tare glaze, offering a satisfying, lighter-feeling bowl distinct from classic unaju. Diners craving the traditional rice box can tailor their order by appetite: the Nami comes with half an eel, the Jo with three-quarters, and the Tokujo with a whole eel.

For izakaya grazing, the skewer selection and specialized eel appetizers—dubbed "utsumami"—are the main draw. Beyond classic una skewers and curled kurikara skewers, the bitter, tare-brushed unagimo (eel liver) pairs cleanly with chilled sake or a highball. Creative small plates also populate the counter, from broth-rich umaki rolled omelets and vinegared uzaku to crisp eel-and-cheese spring rolls and crunchy unakatsu cutlets.

Starting with drinks and skewers before finishing with an eel rice box or bowl makes for an easy night out. Open continuously from lunchtime through the evening, Unayoi fits equally well for an unplanned lunch or a boisterous nightcap with friends.